The Cook Islands became a British protectorate at their own request in 1888, then were transferred to New Zealand in 1901. They remained a New Zealand protectorate until 1965, at which point they became a self-governing territory in free association with New Zealand. Today, the Cook Islands are essentially independent, but are still officially placed under New Zealand sovereignty. New Zealand is tasked with overseeing the country’s foreign relations and defence, but may not impose legislation on the Cook Islands without the latter’s consent. The Cook Islands are one of three New Zealand dependencies, along with Tokelau and Niue.

After achieving autonomy in 1965, the Cook Islands elected Albert Henry of the Cook Islands Party as their first Prime Minister. He was succeeded in 1978 by Tom Davis of the Democratic Party. On June 11, 1980, the United States signed a treaty with New Zealand specifying the maritime border between the Cook Islands and American Samoa and also relinquishing its claim to the islands of Penrhyn, Pukapuka (Danger), Manihiki, and Rakahanga.

There are several interesting buildings around Rarotonga which are referred to as palaces, being the homes of the district chief or ariki. More impressive are the old limestone churches built by missionaries in the mid-1800’s. The oldest church is on Aitutaki in Arutanga Village, but of equal beauty is Matavera church on the east coast of Rarotonga and Avarua church in the main town where several notable islanders and distinguished Europeans are buried.

The Cook Islands museum has a few original artefacts from the past but most artefacts on display are replicas - the originals being in the Auckland museum in New Zealand. There’s a cultural centre which explains about pre-European culture and history but although the displays are interesting, they are aimed at the general tourist market with wise crack jokes and interaction to keep people on their toes.

The Cook Islands are believed to have been settled about 500AD by a migration that left from western French Polynesia. The ancient Cook Island Maoris believed in ancestral gods and the community was held together by the ruling chief or ariki and the priest or ta’unga both of which were hereditary titles, usually passing through the male lineage.

The ariki and ta’unga were reveered as having supernatural powers referred to as mana and this mana could be increased from consuming their enemies in war. Cannibalism and warfare were thus common practice. Sub chiefs were responsible for smaller collections of families within a village.